machu picchu: day 2

 Day 2: challenge

Our guide warned us the previous night that today would be a challenge, and that we would "not be ok." Today, there would be no ruins, just up, up, up, up! Going up is divided into three sections, with 8km being uphill and 3km downhill to camp. The third uphill section was the most challenging due to the high altitude of the first pass we crossed - Dead Woman's Pass - at 4125m. We climbed over 1000m on day 2.

There are two paths to reach Machu Picchu: the military path, which is easier and takes only 9 hours, and the Inca Trail, which nowadays takes 4 days, but it used to take longer when the Incans hoofed it. It is a path of nobility or a pilgrimage path. A knowledge path. 'Knowledge,' because it exists in each of us, and 'path,' since we can walk on. All this, according to Wilfredo. 

He also offered:

"You decided to be here."

"You have already been here."

"For sure, you will go back different."

"...we don't know when..."

We stopped to have a second breakfast today between our three uphill sections.

My backpack, sleeping bag & mat, & walking sticks. The last bit were saviours for the knees.

I started chewing coca leaves to help with the altitude. I had 5 in the side of my cheek, my guide said he had 30 in his mouth.

At high altitudes its tough to walk uphill a few blocks, let alone hike. 

Today was the day our group bonded. The third section up to the first and highest peak was in sight but seemed so far away. We each got cheered when we reached the top. I lucked out to have such a supportive group :)

Our guide only told us the story of why its called Dead Woman's Pass after we crossed it. Apparently in the 1940s there were no tour agencies and flocks of tourists at Machu Picchu but there were treasure hunters on the Inca Trail, along with their porters. You could pay $5 and camp anywhere. Quite the contrast to the current 2000 tour operators today!

Once, two porters had to continue on the trail during the night to find the next campsight. They say one porter saw a ghost lady at the top of the first pass, ran back down the mountain, & got sick. But, nobody actually died there to give it that name. 

Many people are almost at the top of the peak, but then have to turn back. In fact, when I was near the peak, I saw a young woman sitting on the side crying. I later learned that she had appendicitis & would have to turn back the way she came. I can't imagine how devastating that would be to get so far, to then have to go back.

Before arriving at camp, we experienced rain, strong winds, scorching sun, and even hail. In

other words, just a typical Andean day.

Nights get quite cold. Our guide said we could join the porters in their tent if we got cold. Mornings were also nippy, but Edy came around each morning to wake us up & he even brought us tea in our tents.